Links provided
This page is also an experiment in presenting information - If you have an opinion let me know as I may change the format later.
Helmet
I have experience with a few different brands and styles of helmet. I prefer Arai, Shoei, and Schuberth.
Years ago I used to go to a bike store and try helmets on and buy the one that felt most comfortable. Often these would become loose over time and become uncomfortable, and I'd carp about the thing and replace it way before it was due. I learned, primarily due to a sales policy Arai had requiring proper fitment at a dealership by a trained employee, that I had been buying helmets that were too large. Indeed when properly sized in a helmet with a shell shape appropriate to my skull the helmets felt way too tight. In time however the inner linings sort of compressed to fit my face/head exactly and voila - true comfort!
I suggest buying a helmet from a source where you can get properly fitted - find a high end dealership providing that service and buy the helmet from them. You might save a dollar or two buying on line, but a high end dealer will serve your warranty needs without hassle.
Helmets should be as light as possible, provide good ventilation, good visibility, and have a good warranty. I only endorse full face helmets.
The ones I like:
Arai RXQ - new on the market in 2010. Light, reasonably quiet on the bikes I ride and superbly quiet on a sport bike. Best part is the enhanced peripheral vision afforded by the wide opening.
Schuberth C3 - the flip front is the best helmet I have of its type. It de-mists well, is strong, is the lightest hemet I own, has a flip down sun visor and is fairly quiet for a flip front. It is expensive but once you evaluate it you will understand the cost factor. The Vulture likes it.
Shoei Multitech - Reserved for the GoldWing and about the best flip front after the Schuberth.
Years ago I used to go to a bike store and try helmets on and buy the one that felt most comfortable. Often these would become loose over time and become uncomfortable, and I'd carp about the thing and replace it way before it was due. I learned, primarily due to a sales policy Arai had requiring proper fitment at a dealership by a trained employee, that I had been buying helmets that were too large. Indeed when properly sized in a helmet with a shell shape appropriate to my skull the helmets felt way too tight. In time however the inner linings sort of compressed to fit my face/head exactly and voila - true comfort!
I suggest buying a helmet from a source where you can get properly fitted - find a high end dealership providing that service and buy the helmet from them. You might save a dollar or two buying on line, but a high end dealer will serve your warranty needs without hassle.
Helmets should be as light as possible, provide good ventilation, good visibility, and have a good warranty. I only endorse full face helmets.
The ones I like:
Arai RXQ - new on the market in 2010. Light, reasonably quiet on the bikes I ride and superbly quiet on a sport bike. Best part is the enhanced peripheral vision afforded by the wide opening.
Schuberth C3 - the flip front is the best helmet I have of its type. It de-mists well, is strong, is the lightest hemet I own, has a flip down sun visor and is fairly quiet for a flip front. It is expensive but once you evaluate it you will understand the cost factor. The Vulture likes it.
Shoei Multitech - Reserved for the GoldWing and about the best flip front after the Schuberth.
Outer Layer
Sliding down the road naked is a visual that should convey a lot of pain. The outer layer represents your skin when you have an accident. It should fit as close to your body as comfort will allow so it does not roll around as you are sliding along the pavement - so the protective armor isn't displaced from elbows, knees, shoulders, hips, and back.
The protective armor should be substantial. I prefer European garments given the EU standards for protective armor assure a minimally sufficient level of protection. Some U.S. manufacturers now offer garments with the same certification for the armor. I make a personal exception for the Aerostich Roadcrafter and like garments as I've worn a Roadcrafter for 150,000 miles or so and the armor is uniquely sufficient.
The outer layer ought to be water and wind proof. Yes you can stop to put rain gear on and then stop to take it off. I've done that in years past, and it is a pain in the ass, and it means carrying one more thing on your bike. Modern garments like the Aerostich Roadcrafter use Gore-Tex or some like membrane that is both waterproof and breathable. Waterproof vents are typically incorporated so you can open up to the air when the temperatures approach TFH.
I now wear BMW Comfort Shell garments that feature soft and body heat moldable armor and provide a HUGE back protector pad. The garment breathes like Gore-tex but the pores close when it is cold and/or wet, becoming windproof and waterproof. It is therefore warmer in the cold than my Roadcrafter. I think it is the best of anything I have tried.
I also wear the BMW Rally III jacket when riding my dirt/adventure bikes. The garment is superbly designed and constructed, keeps me dry when it is raining, and has plenty of venting for those hot and humid days. Awesome armor. An excellent Choice. I wear it with the Comfort Shell pants.
The protective armor should be substantial. I prefer European garments given the EU standards for protective armor assure a minimally sufficient level of protection. Some U.S. manufacturers now offer garments with the same certification for the armor. I make a personal exception for the Aerostich Roadcrafter and like garments as I've worn a Roadcrafter for 150,000 miles or so and the armor is uniquely sufficient.
The outer layer ought to be water and wind proof. Yes you can stop to put rain gear on and then stop to take it off. I've done that in years past, and it is a pain in the ass, and it means carrying one more thing on your bike. Modern garments like the Aerostich Roadcrafter use Gore-Tex or some like membrane that is both waterproof and breathable. Waterproof vents are typically incorporated so you can open up to the air when the temperatures approach TFH.
I now wear BMW Comfort Shell garments that feature soft and body heat moldable armor and provide a HUGE back protector pad. The garment breathes like Gore-tex but the pores close when it is cold and/or wet, becoming windproof and waterproof. It is therefore warmer in the cold than my Roadcrafter. I think it is the best of anything I have tried.
I also wear the BMW Rally III jacket when riding my dirt/adventure bikes. The garment is superbly designed and constructed, keeps me dry when it is raining, and has plenty of venting for those hot and humid days. Awesome armor. An excellent Choice. I wear it with the Comfort Shell pants.
Mid Layer
Mid layer is stuff that one adds or takes off as the ride dictates.
It can be a light weight fleece sweater, a wool shirt, a thicker pile jacket, or an electric jacket like the Gerbing products I favor. The electric jacket is one of the neatest things I own as it lets me adjust the temperature as conditions dictate and it isn't bulky - so my outer layer can still fit snugly.
I often don't add anything over my legs as I like my pants to fit securely but I will, when wearing a wicking undergarment, add a light weight sweat pant to absorb the moisture that is wicked away from my body. Doing so forestalls Monkey Butt.
It can be a light weight fleece sweater, a wool shirt, a thicker pile jacket, or an electric jacket like the Gerbing products I favor. The electric jacket is one of the neatest things I own as it lets me adjust the temperature as conditions dictate and it isn't bulky - so my outer layer can still fit snugly.
I often don't add anything over my legs as I like my pants to fit securely but I will, when wearing a wicking undergarment, add a light weight sweat pant to absorb the moisture that is wicked away from my body. Doing so forestalls Monkey Butt.
Inner Layer
This is a problem area. Most of us wear cotton underwear as it is comfy and absorbs some moisture. I usually wear it in the winter as the number of miles per day is much less than in the other seasons. What makes cotton nice is, paradoxically, what makes it undesirable in most riding situations. That is it absorbs moisture.
In time cotton becomes saturated with sweat and sitting in saturated underwear sets up a lot of nasty problems. Some people, including me, use a product called Anti Monkey Butt powder. It works as advertised and affords a solution good for short days in the saddle, in my experience.
Much is made of wicking garments like the venerable LD Comfort. I wear these as well as the tights, and they do an excellent job of moving moisture away from my skin to the outer garments to be, eventually, evaporated. The benefit is dry skin minimizes the effect of sitting in wet cotton undergarments for hour after hour on hot days and forestalls Monkey Butt. These wicking shorts work best when there is an absorbent layer next to them like a cotton short or pant.
Alternately, I experimented with the Taxi driver bead thing on my saddle - it actually works to keep airflow under your butt which allows moisture to be evaporated. Now the beads don't overcome a saddle that has a poor shape to it but they do help to keep your back end cooler and drier thus augmenting your undergarments features.
A potential downside with rider gear is with whatever one's outer garment is. Sliding down the road on your butt generates a lot of friction - which means heat - which means synthetic undergarments could melt onto your skin if the slide is long enough. Melted fabric in my skin is an unappealing thought - it is akin to melted plastic, and can't be all that much fun in the ER as they scrub that off you to healthy unburned tissue underneath. Something to think about.
In time cotton becomes saturated with sweat and sitting in saturated underwear sets up a lot of nasty problems. Some people, including me, use a product called Anti Monkey Butt powder. It works as advertised and affords a solution good for short days in the saddle, in my experience.
Much is made of wicking garments like the venerable LD Comfort. I wear these as well as the tights, and they do an excellent job of moving moisture away from my skin to the outer garments to be, eventually, evaporated. The benefit is dry skin minimizes the effect of sitting in wet cotton undergarments for hour after hour on hot days and forestalls Monkey Butt. These wicking shorts work best when there is an absorbent layer next to them like a cotton short or pant.
Alternately, I experimented with the Taxi driver bead thing on my saddle - it actually works to keep airflow under your butt which allows moisture to be evaporated. Now the beads don't overcome a saddle that has a poor shape to it but they do help to keep your back end cooler and drier thus augmenting your undergarments features.
A potential downside with rider gear is with whatever one's outer garment is. Sliding down the road on your butt generates a lot of friction - which means heat - which means synthetic undergarments could melt onto your skin if the slide is long enough. Melted fabric in my skin is an unappealing thought - it is akin to melted plastic, and can't be all that much fun in the ER as they scrub that off you to healthy unburned tissue underneath. Something to think about.
Boots
Breathable boots seem to be a good thing in theory but in practice become non-breathable as they get dirty and the pores clog.
Currently I wear the SIDI Discovery - the link is for a waterproof version. The discovery has reasonable ankle protection, is fairly supportive when I stand on the pegs of my adventure bikes, is adjustable in the closures, and pretty inexpensive for an all around boot that is easy to walk in.
On my more sporting machines I prefer a boot with a stiffer sole,and made for sport bike riding. I currently wear an AlpineStars SMX-5. Gives me good feel for the pegs, are light, tend to vent well, and provide reasonable protection.
I wear wool socks. Wool keeps my feet warm and dry in cold climates and in hot climates dry out quickly strapped to the bike so they flap in the breeze. I change them a couple times a day, and hit a laundromat more often in hot conditions to wash my undergarments, socks, and so on.
Currently I wear the SIDI Discovery - the link is for a waterproof version. The discovery has reasonable ankle protection, is fairly supportive when I stand on the pegs of my adventure bikes, is adjustable in the closures, and pretty inexpensive for an all around boot that is easy to walk in.
On my more sporting machines I prefer a boot with a stiffer sole,and made for sport bike riding. I currently wear an AlpineStars SMX-5. Gives me good feel for the pegs, are light, tend to vent well, and provide reasonable protection.
I wear wool socks. Wool keeps my feet warm and dry in cold climates and in hot climates dry out quickly strapped to the bike so they flap in the breeze. I change them a couple times a day, and hit a laundromat more often in hot conditions to wash my undergarments, socks, and so on.
Gloves
I have gloves like Imelda Marcos had shoes. Always the quest for the right pair - and hard to find.
I wear the lightest gloves I can for the conditions I'm in. I need tactile feel for the throttle, clutch and brake levers. I find heavy gloves diminish the feel and I don't like that.
Heated grips make up for the thickness and many light weight gloves have wind stop membranes and I'll choose these if the trip takes me to colder climes. I do not care if my hands get wet.
Gloves tend to dry out reasonably well overnight if placed next to a room heater or wrapped in a motel towel. When I ride boxer engined bikes I just lay the gloves on the cylinders when I go into a store for coffee, and they will be dry when I return - or at least be warm and wet.
I wear the lightest gloves I can for the conditions I'm in. I need tactile feel for the throttle, clutch and brake levers. I find heavy gloves diminish the feel and I don't like that.
Heated grips make up for the thickness and many light weight gloves have wind stop membranes and I'll choose these if the trip takes me to colder climes. I do not care if my hands get wet.
Gloves tend to dry out reasonably well overnight if placed next to a room heater or wrapped in a motel towel. When I ride boxer engined bikes I just lay the gloves on the cylinders when I go into a store for coffee, and they will be dry when I return - or at least be warm and wet.
These are my opinions - YMMV